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Wine of the week | Retailer of the month | Tasting with Oz
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Moda Amarone, Joseph, Primo Estate, McLaren Vale, South Australia. Joe Grilli is one of Australia’s great innovators. He could have decided to make a high-quality Cabernet-Merlot blend in the classic Bordeaux style. But no. He says he doesn’t want to make a slightly better Cabernet than someone else. He wants to dazzle people. He says he believes the role of small wineries is to explore the unconventional, so he makes his Cabernet-Merlot as though he were making an Amarone in Valpolicella in Italy! He partially dries the grapes before fermenting them. This gives the wine a fantastic richness but also a thrilling black chocolate bitterness that gnashes its teeth at the dense, ripe, black plum and black cherry fruit and, in time, five years maybe, will blend into a bittersweet beauty rarely equalled in a red wine. This is still very young – magnificent but unresolved. By all means drink it now for its pent-up power and grandeur, or buy it and leave it, and finally have one of the great red wine experiences of your life. Philglas & Swiggot contact details: Taken from the new Oz Clarke 250 Best Wines Wine Buying Guide 2008
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© 2007 Anova Books
