14 June 2004 2000 Carignane, Wild Hog Vineyard, Saini Farms Dry Creek Valley, California, USA, £19.99, The Winery If the smart alecs and marketing maestros of Californian wine had their way, curmudgeonly old grape varieties like Carignane would have been uprooted aeons ago. But there's a movement of anti-establishment grape growers who cosset and cherish these last pockets of California's vineyard history and make spectacular wines out of them – not subtle, not elegant, but bursting with old-time personality. This tastes almost sweet-sour, cherry and plum, like a Cantonese sauce – and it's rich, super-rich even, with a bit of cream sploshing about and some sprigs of hillside herbs. Taken from Oz Clarke's Wine Buying Guide 2004 Printable Tasting Sheet